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【高定赏细节】Christian Dior 2012 Couture Printempts-Ete  

2012-01-25 16:06:21|  分类: Défilé/秀场 |  标签: |举报 |字号 订阅

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V.v认为,当Bill由于错判形式,在2011秋冬高级定制时装周上大败而归,设计集团痛定思痛,决定大胆摆脱现有设计思路的桎梏,抹掉一切辉煌和耻辱,回归最根本的品牌精神。虽然这确实会让设计师本人遭受前所未有的舆论挑战(跟当年的Givenchy被认为是只知道食Criston Balenciga牙慧的乖学生一样,Bill也在John Galliano的粉丝面前抬不起头来),但在这个时机,强调品牌价值无疑是个非常明智的决定。
因回归品牌价值的取向,于是New Look便被彻底地贯彻本季春夏高级定制的秀场。改良版的茧形轮廓在腰部急剧收缩,加上松散飘逸的下摆,和Christian Dior先生在二战后开创的、拯救了战后欧洲女性审美格局的New Look系列毫无二致。
格纹和黑白是Bill Gaytten自身的审美注脚,而将接缝儿塞进面料缝隙中的做法也是他为John Galliano打版时就留下的习惯。(这一点在2012春夏高级成衣周的John Galliano品牌秀中体现最为集中)若隐若现的驳折领及膝裙,饰有腰部迷你裙A字中裙,以及下摆透视的抓褶连身刺绣长裙,和跟John Galliano秀压轴类似的饰雪纺双层薄纱香彬缎晚礼服,都是似曾相识的轮廓,而特立独行的黑白审美,似乎也为Dior注入了一股清新之风。
虽然相比出自Galliano的高级定制,Bill的作品仍然很僵硬,但是我们有理由相信Bill在逐步调整后,会向我们展示他作为John Galliano最得力助手的能耐,即使Dior的设计师皇冠不能牢实地待在他Bill的头上,但至少以后数年的John Galliano秀就可以不负粉丝们的期待了。
当然,Bill继承老师衣钵,一直待在Dior,也不是不可能。
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