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Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear  

2012-07-14 20:37:42|  分类: McQueen |  标签: |举报 |字号 订阅

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如果要论Alexander McQueen最具暴力美学(Savage Beauty)气息的一场秀,你会怎样回答?2006年秋冬的风雪苏格兰系列?不不,我们讨论的是暴力气息是否纯正,而并非印象是否最深刻;2001年的飞越疯人院(One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest)?差一点,暴力气息仍旧不够纯正。要V.v回答,那就是你现在所看到的2004年春夏系列,孤注一掷(They Shoot Horses, Don’t They,同名电影又译为射马记)。这一场在Salle Wagram 举办的春夏高级成衣发布会,以影片讲述的1930年代的萧条时期,一群舞者为了要得奖而拼命跳舞,以及百对选手参加马拉松式舞蹈大赛时明争暗斗的经过作为灵感。这场时装秀以一种黑暗和使人绝望的方式演绎了真正浓郁的Savage Beauty,乖戾的张力一触即发,恰恰是以最美的肢体语言,崭露人性的柔脆和扭曲。
继03年东欧荒诞坎普民俗和性感后拜占庭帝国等主题后,Alexander McQueen大量在本季应用视觉效果灿烂的舞衣,以兼具贴身和飘逸的作品烘托出形体与精神的扭曲。 大量应用的雪纺纱和亮片,紧身裤和各种形状的裙裾,交织出魅惑与狂野的肢体语言。肉色雪纺纱下隐隐露出肌肤,亮片排列的花纹爬过全身。飘逸的裙装有长有短,荷叶边、鱼尾裙、不规则剪裁等,在模特儿大动作的展示下,展现出一派拉丁舞式的爆发力,这正是McQueen为人称道的对于暴力力量感的掌控。
不过Alexander McQueen不只以特殊材质取胜,多款棉质与牛仔布等平实布料的特殊剪裁作品,才真正引人瞩目。单宁和其他的普通面料刻意做旧,以精湛的石洗模仿磨蚀的效果,巧妙营造出独一无二的萧条氛围。同时他在肉色薄纱上拼贴了不同的材质与色块,远远看过去,就好似在肌肤上直接贴上布块。 不同的布料拼接,也展现出强烈冲突感:他将T恤材质的布料接在光滑的伸缩人造纤维布面上,也玩弄雪纺纱和弹性布的拼凑,带来不同层次的视觉冲击效果。这场特殊的成衣秀安排模特以舞蹈方式行进,并找来知名舞蹈家Michael Clark编舞,率领一班舞者在伦敦进行超过两星期的密集训练,而现场的服装模特儿则火速在秀前一小时内排定演出动作。
而在今年3月的Alexander McQueen2012秋冬成衣秀上,Sarah Buton同样选择了Salle Wagram作为发布场地,然而那种嚣张肆意的暴力氛围则大大削弱,虽然对于Sarah Buton本人而言算是比较高质量的答卷,但是倘若与已经逝世的Lee Alexander McQueen相比则非常得造作繁复,丧失了那股人类本真使然的乖张气味。
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2004 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
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