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Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear  

2012-07-15 23:26:08|  分类: McQueen |  标签: |举报 |字号 订阅

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“浪漫并且热辣着,”Alexander McQueen在12年前的春夏后台对我们的编辑说道,“当然这也是一个文化痕迹和销售轨迹遍布世界各地的系列。”仿佛他的新老板Gucci财团在其作品前面比出自其手的褶皱雪纺小洋装和Trousersuit更具有主导权。确实是这样,那些黑暗而充满西班牙式激情的性感成分像极了Gucci财团同名主线品牌Gucci的定位,这就是上层建筑所拥有的摧枯拉朽的权利,将McQueen价值观中某一些严肃的正统宗教意识流(虽然是极少量)扭曲变形了。
“El baile del toro retorcido”,淫邪之斗牛曲,系列的名字就说明了一切。紧身的胸衣大片镂空,细软脆弱的上身服装结构带着佛朗门戈式的、双层雪纺或者蕾丝打褶而成的蓬蓬裙,像孔雀尾巴一样招摇地煽动着,步伐之间的层层涟漪泛起酒杯中那一抹属于波尔多的猩红。依靠细带连接的紧身几何切割胸衣式上装在层叠的裙摆之上玩起了迷藏戏法,手工的要求上实现起来非常具有难度。华丽的双绉吸烟西服套装,剪裁流畅的双排扣防皱廓形长裤以及纤细的吸烟长裤,在斗牛士的国度里被淫邪和黑暗所折服,肩膀上细腻穿珠装饰闪耀着堕落的灵光。立体褶裥圆点连身裙在前襟绑上参差不齐的紧身衣,薄纱从后背瀑布一般地悬垂而下,斗牛士血腥的长矛犬牙交错地固定在礼服之上,欲望与暴力在临界点喷薄而出。
然而,当时的Alexander McQueen已经成为了Gucci财团奢华帝国(当今世界第二大奢侈品财团,位居LVMH之次)的一员,以渐进手法招揽更多的拥趸也成为一个重要的命题,所以你可以明白那些看起来非常具有商业成功性的喇叭长裤、缎面衬衫以及铅笔裙背后所深藏的根本动机。在McQ的时尚日历之上,2001年9月份的2002春夏成衣周是至关重要的一笔。为什么?那一大批刚刚被波尔多的猩红所湮没的新拥趸就是参考答案之一。
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2002 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
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