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Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear  

2012-07-17 15:33:30|  分类: McQueen |  标签: |举报 |字号 订阅

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2003年,迎来了Alexander McQueen的事业毋庸置疑的拐角点,从一个只是拥有惊人想象力的、受众褒贬参半的时装界坏孩子,不断成长为一个在艺术、制衣技巧以及商业因素上都具有超凡掌控力的设计师。Lee Alexander McQueen极富创意的远见与业界内凤毛麟角的至高剪裁技术,让他在行业疲软之际一次次成为巴黎时装周的救星,从过去到他逝世之前,捍卫着创意制衣之都那即将开始没落的传奇。
你所看到的2003春夏的成衣系列根本上来说是戏剧性的,但是同时在商业上也有可行性——又是这一对浓纤得当的调性配合,但是在当时的国际经济大背景下,这需要相当的胆魄与天才。Lee Alexander McQueen从荒凉而冰雪覆盖的悲悯情怀中起步,僵硬束腰的黑白色刺绣裙与小洋装,裹挟在紧勒的皮革驳折长靴与胸衣之中,层层叠叠的细腻褶裥钩编自由悬垂,看起来相当具有商业成功性;但是同时Lee Alexander McQueen又在其间掺杂了不少的戏剧性元素——夹在模特鼻翼两端的圆形金属盘,堆叠在肩胛的抽丝梦幻皮草,鱼鳍一般地立体耳环,以及故意裁碎的两件破碎丝缎礼服长裙,每一件都带着暴力气息跋扈的McQ式美学。A-line无袖连衣裙与层叠的拜占庭帝国饰颈领以及亮片绣花雪纺小洋装都是相当具有标识度的、但又接受度足够高的选择。
凛冽冬日的铺排足够长了,随即背景荧光灯亮起,模特顶着松散僵硬的大卷发登场,橄榄绿、柠檬黄、勃艮第色、冰蓝等等浓郁的调色盘随意泼洒在精致无比的立体褶裥超大花饰圆形斗篷上,但却配搭了相当具有冲击效果的军装下装轮廓,让包括Heidi Klum在内的大批Icon记忆无比深刻。其他的版画式印花来自于海洋,以及处理过的McQ本人的大脑扫描图——“女孩儿们穿着在身上的,是我的思想。”Lee在后台这样淘气而得意地说道。这就是当时最好的时装头脑的体现,秀场上的风格在之后的几年里肆虐横扫世界各地。模特谢幕之际,屏幕上再一次播放起Lee Alexander McQueen的大脑扫描图,作为这一整场时尚头脑风暴的风暴眼,带来置身喧嚣芜杂时装界之中的片刻纯净。创意的纯净。
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 

Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
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Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
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Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003 SS Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
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