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Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear  

2012-07-18 15:22:28|  分类: McQueen |  标签: |举报 |字号 订阅

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至此,Lee Alexander McQueen的心灵扫描并没有结束,此次他将系列的名称就设定为Scanner,扫描者。但是作为一个彻底离经叛道的设计师,Lee的扫描将不再停留在自我夸耀和强调上,这一次的扫描关乎捍卫。以西方式的灵魂,剥离自身的猎奇心理来验证东方文化的某种辉煌或者是失落,然而却又一次无心插柳地寻找到了两种思维模式的共通点——文化的根源,是人类行为意识的镜像,而要如此深不可解的、精微思索的产物用世俗浅显的时装语汇表达出来,则正是Lee Alexander McQueen独特的能力所在。
干冰与瓦砾散落遍地,最为荒凉的场地设置意在突出设计语汇之中一些更为坚强的成分。身着十四十五世纪式样的铠甲装束的强大女性,穿越荒凉贫瘠的俄罗斯西伯利亚冻土,穿越喜马拉雅山脉(这是McQueen对于这个女性形象的设定),最终达到太阳升起的地方,日本。将天马行空的想象力和设计语汇与多元文化相融合,模糊时代界限以展现超现实主义的设计构思。紧致束腰的精准廓形、华丽考究的刺绣、以及版画式手绘纹饰演绎富有戏剧性的魔幻现实主义文化变奏曲。江户时代的棋盘花纹图案、日本武士盔甲及苏维埃战士服的服饰细节强调了主题,对于文化的捍卫。
而作为这一趟文化与心灵扫描之旅的装置设定就是秀场上方的玻璃走廊装置,模特们全部都从玻璃装置之中顶着超大马力鼓风机造的暴风雪走出(这个做法后来还启发了Costume National的设计师,运用到品牌复线C'N'C的秀场上),借以表达切身的苦难之旅对于感知文化的重要性,而不是奢华臃肿的东方列车猎奇之旅。最后压轴的两位模特身着装饰有大和刺绣与苏绣的巨大降落伞式斗篷,顶着几乎让人站不稳的一阵狂风暴雪(其中一位亚裔的压轴模特甚至戴上了护目镜)接受文化的洗礼与扫描,纷乱芜杂的设计语汇全数归零,密闭空间内阵阵呼啸带来最为原始的张力。在当年,Lee Alexander McQueen获得近五分钟的欢呼与掌声,仅次于06年秋冬苏格兰系列的凯特莫斯3D剪影所制造的轰动。后来他揽着当时的设计助理Sarah Buton(Lee逝世后担纲Alexander McQueen品牌设计师) 谢幕,不知道是否是因为这个系列中某些特别具有女性化气质的设计出自Sarah Buton之手。
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
 
Alexander McQueen 2003-2004 FW Ready-to-Wear - V.v - Obsessdia
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